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I'm going to present this as "kitchen chemistry" as I feel most people with adequate chemistry
knowledge (and equipment) will be able to do it correctly without my help.
There are three procedures for DXM extraction that are commonly used: precipitation and filtration,
single-phase acid-base extraction, and dual-phase acid-bsae extraction (the "Agent Lemon"
process). The first method is by far the least popular because the DXM precipitate is often so fine
that it passes through the filter paper.
You can, of course, still use the precipitation procedure; I just don't recommend it. If you do choose
to precipitate DXM, try to get actual filter paper rather than a coffee filter - it will help.
Theory of Acid-Base Extractions
The acid-base extraction process is a common method for isolating a desired chemical from
undesirable "gunk". The theory is that certain chemicals (generally, alkaloids) occur in two forms: a
water-soluble complex with an acid, and an oil-soluble free base form. For example,
pseudoephedrine (SudafedTM), a decongestant, is usually supplied as the hydrochloride salt
(pseudoephedrine HCl). It can also exist as a base, without an acid molecule (thus the term "free
base"). You can convert an alkaloid from acid salt to free base (or vice versa) using a base (or acid).
The practical upshot is you take your chemical and "gunk", and raise the pH with a base (e.g.,
sodium hydroxide) until the chemical converts to free base form and precipitates out (since it's no
longer soluble in water). Now you add a nonpolar solvent (an "oily" layer) for the chemical to
dissolve in, shake for a long time, and all the chemical you want is in the nonpolar layer. Discard
the polar (i.e., water) layer, and you're left with a nonpolar layer full of your chemical .....

Plus anything else that might be oil-soluble. So you reverse the process, by adding an acid until the
free base turns into an acid salt, and precipitates out of the nonpolar layer. Add water, shake, and
you can discard your nonpolar layer.
This is the acid-base extraction, and it's very frequently used to extract the active ingredients from
plants (free clue: the THC in marijuana is not an alkaloid and thus won't extract this way).
Single-Phase Acid-Base Extraction of DXM
So how do we apply this to DXM? Well, it turns out that DXM is an alkaloid, and you can extract
DXM from cough syrups using the same process. Furthermore, this procedure even works for DXM
plus guaifenesin syrups, e.g., Robitussin DM, and generic equivalents (invariably called Tussin
DM). The "DM" syrups usually only contain 10 mg/5ml of DXM, so you won't get as much yield,
but they're usually cheaper (and more commonly available).
This is actually a single-phase acid-base extraction, because we only go from acid form (DXM
HBr) to base form (DXM free base). The final product ends up dissolved in an organic solvent,
which is then evaporated to leave DXM free base.
I have added a new set of steps to this process to help to remove some of the gunk that can end up
in the final product. These steps are in italics and may be omitted if desired.
Do NOT try this extraction procedure with cough syrups or formulations containing
acetaminophen/paracetamol, pseudoephedrine, other decongestants, or antihistamines.
Decongestants and antihistamines are usually alkaloids and will end up in the final product; as for
acetaminophen, I'm not convinced yet of the safety of the final product.
For this procedure you will need:
• Cough syrup (obviously) or some other DXM-containing preparation. The only active
ingredients that should be listed are dextromethorphan and guaifenesin. Avoid alcohol (check the inactive ingredients). If you can get DXM-only preparations, do so; the
DXM+guaifenesin preparations tend to contain less DXM than the DXM-only ones.
• Two plastic two-liter bottles, washed and with the label removed. Of course, you can use
flasks if you have them.
• A glass container to make your sodium hydroxide solution in (a mason jar works; you can
also use a drinking glass).
• Two plastic bags with a slide-lock closure (e.g., ZiplocTM), big enough to hold the cough
syrup plus an additional amount of lighter fluid. The plastic bags should be non-pleated.
They will be used as separatory funnels.
• A nonpolar solvent. The easiest to get is ZippoTM lighter fluid (or an equivalent) - note that
this is cigarette lighter fluid, not charcoal lighter fluid. You want your solvent to evaporate
quickly, leaving no residue. The easiest way to test it is by placing a drop or two onto a
pocket mirror, and letting it evaporate; if it leaves no residue or smell, you can use it.
• Sodium hydroxide (NaOH). Photography supply stores carry this. In a pinch, some people
have been known to use Red DevilTM Lye. I do not advise this! Lye is likely to be impure. If
you must use lye, make sure you let your sodium hydroxide solution settle (see below). Note
that sodium hydroxide is caustic and severely damaging to the eyes, so wear your safety
goggles!
• A heat-resistant glass baking dish (smaller is better).
• Distilled water (tap water won't work as well due to the chlorine and dissolved ions).
• A pair of scissors
• Access to the outdoors.
To speed up the process (from overnight to about 30 minutes), you will have to evaporate the
solvent with heating. For this you will require:
• An electric wok or skillet, or a hot plate with a pot of water on it. Basically, you want a
flameless (electric) source of heat that will heat up a volume of water, which you can put
your baking dish in (the hot water will heat the baking dish).
• A hair dryer
• An OSHA-certified organic vapor mask
Some warnings about organic vapors. The solvents you will in all likelihood be dealing with
(hexane, heptane, petroleum ether, whatever) are bad for you. Really bad for you -- they can give
you brain damage if you inhale too much of them. You do NOT want to breathe the fumes. Get it?
So, if you want to speed up the process, pony up US$30.00 or so for an OSHA certified organic
vapor gas mask (tell `em you'll be painting with oil-based paint). Sure, it's uncomfortable and looks
dorky. But it sure beats brain damage! Additionally, you absolutely mustdo the evaporation
outdoors (unless you happen to have a fume cabinet handy. And NO, the stove or bathroom fan does NOT count as a fume cabinet).
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A brief word or two about sodium hydroxide: it's caustic, especially to the eyes, and when you add
it to water it will heat up. Always add the sodium hydroxide to the water, and not vice versa. If you
get it on your skin, wash it off with water (it won't eat through your hand unless you let it sit there).
If you can't find sodium hydroxide at your local photo store, go get a photography magazine and
look in the back for mail order suppliers. Many of them carry sodium hydroxide. It is a very
common chemical and ordering it isn't going to bring the DEA knocking down your door. Please try
to avoid using lye. If you still can't get sodium hydroxide, use the Agent Lemon process.
Okay, here we go:
1. Form a solution of sodium hydroxide (NaOH) by placing one tablespoon (15ml) of solid
sodium hydroxide in one cup (about 236ml) of distilled water in the sodium hydroxide
solution container. Stir until dissolved. If you are using lye (I don't recommend it), wait
awhile to let any impurities settle out to the bottom. Note that dissolving the NaOH will
generate some heat.
2. Empty your cough syrup or formula into the two-liter, rinsing the last of the cough syrup out
of the syrup bottles with distilled water. If using gelcaps, break them open and rinse out the
inside of the capsules.
3. The following steps in italics are suggested for removing some of the gunk that can make it
through the extraction and leave you with a sticky residue instead of crystalline DXM.
Add in enough lighter fluid to the two-liter bottle to make a roughly 1/4 inch (or roughly
5mm) deep layer of lighter fluid per 4oz of syrup.
4. Cap the two-liter bottle and shake the living hell out of it for at least five minutes. Let it sit
undisturbed until the two layers separate again.
5. Pour the entire contents of the two-liter bottle into a sealable plastic baggie, and seal it
shut. Hold it by one of the top corners so that a bottom corner is facing down. Let the layers
separate again if necessary.
6. Holding the baggie's corner over a CLEAN two-liter bottle, snip off the very tip of the
corner. Let the cough syrup layer drain into the clean two-liter bottle, but pinch it shut right
before any of the lighter fluid drains out.
7. Discard the lighter fluid by placing it into an empty container and letting it evaporate
outdoors. Do not put it down the drain or set it on fire.
That's it ... now you should have cough syrup that has had a great deal of the flavorings and
other gunk removed from it. You can repeat the italicized steps if you want to remove even
more.
8. Add one tablespoon (15ml) of sodium hydroxide solution to the two-liter bottle. You should
see a rapid formation of a milky precipitate. Swirl the bottle gently to mix the syrup evenly,
and the precipitate should redissolve (because there's not enough base yet).
9. Repeat the above step, until the precipitate doesn't redissolve with swirling. The entire
solution should be cloudy (stir well to make sure the base is evenly distributed).
10.Add one more tablespoon (15ml) of sodium hydroxide solution to the bottle.
11.Add enough lighter fluid to make a 1/8" (0.3mm) deep layer per 4oz bottle of syrup.
12.Cap the bottle, shake the hell out of it for five minutes, and let it stand until the layers separate again. If the layers don't want to separate, try adding table salt.
13.Carefully pour the contents of the bottle into the sealable plastic bag, and close it shut
("yellow and blue make green-it's sealed!"). Hold the bag by one of the top corners so that
one of the bottom corners points down.
14.Let the two layers separate again (this should only take a few seconds).
15.Cut off the tip of the bottom corner and allow the water layer (the bottom layer) to drain out
of the bag. When the water layer has drained out, pinch the bag shut.
16.Hold the bag over the baking dish, and allow the nonpolar solvent layer to drain out into the
baking dish.
17.Take the baking dish outdoors. At this point, if you don't have a gas mask and a way to heat
the baking dish, you'll have to let the solvent evaporate (which may take a day or so), so skip
the next 4 steps.
18.Put on your gas mask and take the baking dish, hair dryer, and electric heat source outdoors.
19.Place the baking dish into the container of water (electric wok, electric skillet, hot plate with
pan of water, whatever), and set it to simmer. If you can't set the temperature low enough,
you'll have to turn the heater on and off manually to maintain a near-boiling temperature.
20.Plug in the hair dryer and gently blow hot air into the baking dish. Take care not to splash
solvent over the sides of the dish. Incidentally, make sure you don't overload your circuit; it
might be a good idea to alternate heating with the hot plate/wok/skillet and heating with the
hair dryer.
21.Continue heating until all the solvent evaporates. At this point you may see a thin layer of
crystalline material; you might see a shiny layer of goo that looks a lot like the glass itself
(which can be confusing); or you might see a layer of brown gunk. Whatever. Anyway, make
sure all the solvent has evaporated.
22.If your baking dish is covered with an oily substance (goo, gunk, whatever), you in all
likelihood managed to extract some propylene glycol (or something else) along with the
DXM. Blow hot air from the hair dryer onto the surface of the dish until the material dries
completely (this may take 5 to 10 minutes). This should evaporate the propylene glycol,
leaving behind only DXM.
23.Scrape the DXM off the baking dish with a razor blade or other convenient sharp edge. You
now have DXM free base.
A few comments. First, guaifenesin seems to itself convert to an oily layer if you add too much
sodium hydroxide, so don't overdo it. Second, if you happen to have lab equipment you can of
course use a separatory funnel (which is what the plastic baggie is for). Third, if you don't think you
got anything, make sure the baking dish is completely dry; sometimes the DXM free base plus
propylene glycol can look a lot like the glass itself.

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