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Hi there, Save hours of searching online or wasting money on unnecessary repairs by talking to a 6YA Expert who can help you resolve this issue over the phone in a minute or two. Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US. I see here that you have a fairly old belt drive Kenmore washer. The real problem with these is that the parts for them are so very expensive anymore to get. Very expensive repairs on these, but if you want to go for it, here are some hints to help. Sounds like you have one of three problems. First off PLEASE UNPLUG YOUR MACHINE BEFORE WORKING ON IT. Your timer may have lost or has a stuck contact inside unrepairable in most cases which is making it do something is shouldnt be doing in that area of the timer. This would probably be the most expensive of your repair. The next thing is it could be the water level switch could be going bad. This one is highly doubtful since it fills and stops filling, but I have heard but never have seen that they can short out sometimes and cause wacky operation. Both these issues can be fixed by remove the console rear panel and front knobs to remove both. The next item could be a defective wig-wag in the bottom of the unit. One of the positioning solinoids maybe going bad and sending bad signals back to the timer. None of these problems are really hard to fix. And truthfully even though some of these guys will be mad you can sometimes find these parts on ebay for a halfway good price. Part numbers for each are: Timer: 381860 Water Level Switch: 359712 Wig-Wag: 89814 Good luck with this one, and if you know how to use one, try to run resistance with an ohm-meter on your wig-wag to be sure your getting power flow through the soilnoids you will have 2, be sure to unplug the solinoids before testing to be sure its a true test before replacing. Sounds like you have a bad lid switch, or the plastic plunger on the lid that engages the lid switch is broke. This model is a lid switch, and lid lock in one. You can test it before replacing it if you have a meter. Hi, Because it doesn't have an LCD screen it has 'flash codes' instead of fault codes. It is usually located directly behind where the filter is. Because you've cleaned the filter, it might be enough to re-set the machine. If it doesn't, you'll need to count the flashes. There's a short space between a sequence of flashes. Once you know how many times it's flashing, you google; Bush A126Q flash codes That should tell you where the washer thinks it's problem lies.? If it is the latter then simply turn the dial back to 0 before opening the door from the previous wash, this action tells the washing machine to reset itself as the drum is about to be emptied. I have the exact machine however as it is graded, it didn't come with any manuals, at the end of the wash I just figured thta this was what I needed to do. Its almost as if you need to double-declutch the washing machine - return the macine to 0 before selecting another cycle.