Download and installing two point tremolo






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Not having the 'right' tools has prevented me from building anything more than sweet partsocasters, but someday I'm going to try one from bare routed body, maybe ash. I was told that filling the holes with matchwood and woodglue is what professionals at fender use and it sounds quite reasonable being the wood is no different from wood filler. Replace inertia block on tremolo.
You must be accurate! The other screws still exist to cause some amount of friction or interference, and the two that do make contact are too small to properly communicate between the bridge and the body. Drill Bits, Brad Point The bridge went on perfectly. If the two-point on the standard is the same it should fit.
Would you mind giving me the exact caballeros and details for drilling the holes and installing the tremolo. Which your initial post clearly illustrated you were not doing. Lol 1 can it be done on one of those bodies because they are set up with 6 holes for a vintage style trem. It would probably be sin to look closely at your trem plate and see were the trem bar hole is in relation to the mounting screw holes for the trem block on your tremolo before ordering the block. If the scale length is unknown it is a simple matter to measure the neck. Between, this might be different on different models, so you must find it for yourself. Hi Windwalker: I have done six-hole to two point three times and the reverse twice. Your bridge bushings are then placed equal distances either side of the center line, where the crosses are in that last piece. The scale length on a Strat is 25. 
Installing studs for a Fender two point trem? - I much prefer them to the bent steel saddles present on the vintage tremolo unit.
I've put Wilkinson 2 point trems in 3 Squiers now, a CII 2000 Standard, a 1995 VN5 MIK and a MIC 2000 SE. Two of the Wilkinsons came from GuitarFetish. XO O O O O OX Does that make sense? I'm not wanting to change the whole bridge at this time. Just the block on the bridge. I already have the 2 point system on my guitar. I wanted to put a steel or brass one on to replace the cast one. I have been told the blocks on the 6 screw and the 2 point are not the same. I assumed they were. If I were to put the wilkinson on would it fit on without modification? I love this 2 point system but the block really needs an upgrade. I'm not wanting to change the whole bridge at this time. Just the block on the bridge. I already have the 2 point system on my guitar. I wanted to put a steel or brass one on to replace the cast one. I have been told the blocks on the 6 screw and the 2 point are not the same. I assumed they were. If I were to put the wilkinson on would it fit on without modification? I love this 2 point system but the block really needs an upgrade. I've never tried one on a Squier that was originally 2 point so I'm not sure how well things would line up. The Wilkinsons are supposed to be a direct fit onto a Fender American, but as we know the MIM and import posts are spaced narrower. The Wilkinson has a circular pivot edge on one side and a blade on the other that allows some difference, but I'm not sure if it would be enough. I've also got no idea whether the GFS blocks will fit a 2 point system, but I would doubt it. There is someone on one of the forums that makes custom trem blocks, but I think he is in the U. You are right, a machine shop shouldn't need much more than a band saw and a drill press to make one. You should be able to get a good design by looking at a crapola zinc block and extrapolating the critical dimensions onto a rectangular hunk of cold rolled steel. I'm not wanting to change the whole bridge at this time. Just the block on the bridge. I already have the 2 point system on my guitar. I wanted to put a steel or brass one on to replace the cast one. I have been told the blocks on the 6 screw and the 2 point are not the same. I assumed they were. If I were to put the wilkinson on would it fit on without modification? I love this 2 point system but the block really needs an upgrade. I replaced the block on my deluxe strat with a gfs steel block from a tremolo like this that I wasn't using. If the two-point on the standard is the same it should fit. I'm assuming the block on this tremolo is the same as the import 10. However, I had to widen the tremolo cavity about 1mm or so, because the bigger block was touching the side. If you're ok with that, go for it. I replaced the block on my deluxe strat with a gfs steel block from a tremolo like this that I wasn't using. If the two-point on the standard is the same it should fit. I'm assuming the block on this tremolo is the same as the import 10. However, I had to widen the tremolo cavity about 1mm or so, because the bigger block was touching the side. If you're ok with that, go for it. I no longer have the proper tools to do the job and don't want to chisel it. Thats not going to happen. Squier said that guitarpartsresource can probably help but didn't see anything so messaged them and waiting for a response. The worse case scenario, I remove the bridge, fill in the cavity and put a hard tail on it. I need to check the spacing on the wilkinsons. I no longer have the proper tools to do the job and don't want to chisel it. Thats not going to happen. Squier said that guitarpartsresource can probably help but didn't see anything so messaged them and waiting for a response. The worse case scenario, I remove the bridge, fill in the cavity and put a hard tail on it. I need to check the spacing on the wilkinsons. For what little modification is normally necessary for enlarging a trem hole for installation you can easily do with a dremel and a sandling drum or one of the high speed cutting bits. I had to slightly enlarge the trem hole in the top of the body for my last Wilkinson install and that's how I did it. If you were patient you could probably do it with non-powered hand tools for that matter. Maybe I should just order one and see what need to be done. If it doesn't work I could always sell it. I was just concerned about removing any wood towards the front of the block because there is very little there and don't want to compromise the stability of the posts. There is so little there now that the posts are practically visible. Not quite but there isn't any extra. I still find it odd that out of all of the upgrades we have done to the Squiers, no one has tried this on a 2 point standard. Maybe I should just order one and see what need to be done. If it doesn't work I could always sell it. I was just concerned about removing any wood towards the front of the block because there is very little there and don't want to compromise the stability of the posts. There is so little there now that the posts are practically visible. Not quite but there isn't any extra. I still find it odd that out of all of the upgrades we have done to the Squiers, no one has tried this on a 2 point standard. It did fit, The three screw block mounting holes lined up perfectely, I did use slightly longer Stainless Steel screws that I bought at the local hardware store, however you can use your existing screws. The string holes lined up pretty much as well as can be expected, I did use a dremel tool to slightly radius the string holes in the trem plate to keep the trem plate from cutting the strings, it was just a slight radius. The tremolo bar hole in the trem plate was slightly misaligned, but I also slightly ovalised the the trem bar hole in the plate to correct the alignment. You will need the smaller diameter trem bar that is sold by GFS for their trem block. The most difficult thing that I ran into was that the trem block is slightly too wide for the block route in the body, I removed less than a eighth of a inch from each side of the trim block with a file and belt sander, you can do the job with a file alone, but the belt sander leaves a nice finish on the block. I then degreased the block and hit it with some Cold Blue. You could also paint the block or leave just the bare steel, however rust may become a issue. This was a Indonesian made Hot Rails Squier Stratocaster. I do not know if this will work with Chinese or Korean made Tremolos, however it is working great for my guitar, and was easily done with a good file, belt sander, and a dremel tool and some cold blue. I did not modify the guitar body in any way and the original trem block can be reinstalled, with only the slightly ovalized trem bar hole showing any modification. It was a while ago when I ordered the Blocks from GFS, but I believe that I used the 10. It would probably be best to look closely at your trem plate and see were the trem bar hole is in relation to the mounting screw holes for the trem block on your tremolo before ordering the block. I have a block from a newer Fender MIM Standard Strat that bolts to the 2-point bridge plate on my Deluxe, and everything lines up almost perfectly, especially if you screw in the trem arm to act as a guide as you screw in the three screws that hold the block to the base plate. I think the notches for the two pivot studs is the only difference between the base plates for a two-point tremolo and a vintage-style unit, which has six screw holes and a beveled edge at the top. All the measurements for mounting a block should be the same. © 2009 -2015 All rights reserved.