Our History
Old City
Pakpattan is the famous district of Punjab province, also known as the city of saints. Many Muslim Sufi saints worked here for the glory of Islam. Other than Muslims, Sikh spiritual leaders also did meditation in this region. The old name of Pakpattan was Ajodhan. The old city though was established on a big mound called Dhaki meaning "something hidden'. Dhaki is at a higher altitude than the area around and is called the original citadel of Pakpattan. There were gates to enter the city, entering the once walled inner-city through one of the existing gates, you will find yourself in the archetypal form of an ancient town, with crooked and narrow streets, dense housing, and intricate woodwork on jharokas, bay windows, and doors. So many historic cities have developed, losing much of their original character in the process during modern times, but Pakpattan has survived remarkably intact. It is the entire urban fabric of the place that is historic. Though, the major portion of the fortification wall has disappeared. At places, the wall has even been utilized as a part of the residences. Four gates (Shahedi, Rehimun, Abu, and Mori) have survived out of six but they are all crumbling. Now extensive suburbs stretch from the foot of the wall all around.
Thin red bricks from the centuries-old walls are seen being used in the new houses all over the town. The portion of the settlement that sits on the mound can be compared with the walled part of Multan city. The remains of the peripheral wall with ancient mystique, define the inner portion that is pedestrian, containing the vehicular traffic and modern development out of the wall. Homes have also retained their essential trait despite renovations to make them comfortable for modern living or to create additional space for more families. You can see the mythical woodwork, murals as well as tiled facades, and colorful patterns in old havelies. General Alexander Cunningham has recognized Pakpattan, anciently known as Ajodhan, as a town that appears in the work of Hellenic historians and other classic writers under the names of Ohydrakae, Sydrakae, Sudraykae and or Hydaekae.
The ample, pure and unadorned architecture is very inspiring. Urs of the saint Baba Farid-ud-Din is celebrated in the month of Muharram but a large number of devotees stream into the shrine every day. You can also see Qawwal groups performing and malangs falling in a state of trance mostly on Thursdays. The principal shrines are in good condition but the adjoining ancient mosque has decayed. Auqaf is constructing a new mosque nearby as a part of the Farid Complex. Besides the shrines of Baba Farid and Mouj Darya, there are over twenty shrines of saintly persons in the town. Most eminent out of these is the shrine of Baba Aziz Makki. There is a whole different world outside the shrine parameters. Cubbyhole shops selling deathbed spreads, flowers, big bangles, and sweets (for niaz) known as Makhane and eating joints are lined up on both the streets leading to the shrine.
Business in the streets is thriving because devotees ‘must’ take something home from the shrine. Sleazy-sounding and persistent beggars flock around devotees heading for the shrine. People are seen distributing free food, cooked food is available for sale in large quantity round the clock. A philanthropist from Karachi is running a separate Lunger Khana at his own expense since 1995. Bustling with activity, the place seems to have its own culture.
The medieval history of the town started when Amir Subuktagin subdued Pakpattan in 980 A.D. According to Farishta, an old writer and historian the fort defending the city was once captured by Subuktagin in 977-8 A.D followed by Ibrahim Ghaznavi in 1079-80 A.D. The town owes its sanctity and modern name, 'the holy ferry', to the shrine of the great Muslim Sufi Farid-ud-Din, Shaikh-ul-Islam, Farid-ul-Hakkwa-ud-Din, Shakar Ganj (1173-1265 A.D). The place was also visited by the great old traveler and historian Ibn Batuta in 1334 A.D and was the scene of two of Khizr Khan's victories over generals of Delhi in 1401 and 1405 A.D. Even today, the thought that Taimur during his invasion spared the lives of those who had not fled the place, out of respect for the shrine of saint Baba Farid, inspires reverence.
It is said that the city was destroyed seventeen times in history by great warriors. After the destruction a new city was built on the ruins of the old city, because of this, a big mound was made up. From a very early date, it was a place of importance, as the principal ferry across the Sutlej River and as the meeting-place of the great western roads from Dera Ghazi Khan and Dera Ismail Khan. The city was on the way to Multan State and Delhi Empire. All warriors traveling from Multan to Delhi or Delhi to Multan were crossing this city. This city was important in the line of defense at all times. A road called "Delhi Multan Road" road was constructed by Sher Shah Suri. The landmarks of Delhi Multan Road are still in use by Punjab Road Transportation Department. Anybody can read the mileage of Delhi and Multan at any time in all over the area, only present in modern times in this area.
It is said that near Pakpattan, Malka Hans is situated where Waris Shah the renowned Punjabi philosopher and poet, wrote his famous book of "Heer Waris Shah". The thought that so many people including Waris Shah, Ibn-e-Batuta, and Guru Nanik Dev Jee had visited the shrine evokes awe and aura of eternity. Wandering about in the older part of town near the relics of Kacha Burj - a defensive tower that was erected by Haibat Khan during the rule of Sher Shah Suri, you can think about the strategic importance of this town in the bygone era. But, during the Mughal time when danger from the North reduced, the town lost its defensive significance.
The Great Saint Baba Farid-ud-Din Ganj Shakar
Pakpattan is the city of the great Saint Baba Farid-ud-Din Masud Ganj Shakar commonly known as Baba Farid of Chishtia legacy. The saint was born in a village Kothewal (near Multan) in 1173 in a family that had migrated from Afghanistan. He traveled to Khorasan, Kirman, Badakhshan, Baghdad, Makkah, Medina, Kufa, Basra, Damascus, Nishapur, Bukhara, Delhi, and Multan before he finally settled in Pakpattan. Here he spent his life spreading the light of divine Islam. The city is given this name by Saint Farid, the word Pakpattan is made of two words 'Pak' and 'Pattan' meaning clean dockland (Pattan means a dockland or place where ships or boats stop). It is narrated that once saint Farid was having ablution on the bank of the River Sutlej, a local man came to him and told the saint that this water is unclean and the place is dirty, to which the saint Farid replied saying "No the water and place are both clean' in the local language, hence the name "Pak Pattan''.
Baba Farid-ud-Din (Al Masood) is the soul of the city who stayed here for the preaching of Islam, and by the virtue of his preach and his great deeds, thousands of local population (Hindus) of his time accepted Islam. It was due to the religious services and personal example of the saint that Islam spread in this part of the subcontinent and many people including Hindu Jogi Birnath along with his followers came into the folds of Islam. Hazrat Baba Farid-ud-Din Ganj Shakkar died on 5th of Muharram 664 A.H. corresponding to 17 October 1265 C.E. He was buried in Pak Pattan 135 miles (200 km) approx. off Lahore). His shrine was constructed by Khuwaja Nizam-ud-Din Auleya in 1267 C.E.
Splendors of the ‘Farid Complex’ fire the imagination. The shrine, simple and destitute of ornaments, stands next to the bigger shrine of his grandson Ala-ud-Din Mouj Darya, which was built by Sultan Muhammad Tughlaq. The main chamber of the shrine of Baba Farid has two doors - one in the East is called Noori Darwaza and the other in the South is the famous Baheshti Darwaza. Beside the grave of the saint, there is another grave in the chamber where his son Badr-ud-Din Suleman is buried.
The shrine of Baba Farid attracts crowds of followers, its sanctity being acknowledged as far as Afghanistan and Central Asia. The Urs (death anniversary) of Saint Farid is observed every year in Islamic/lunar month of Muharram, which lasts for ten days. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims and visitors come every year to pay homage to this great saint. The principal event of Urs is the crossing of the gate called Bahishti Darwaza (Gate of Heavens). (A local ritual of passing through the gate in Pakpattan). Followers believe that by crossing this gate all of your sins are pardoned and one becomes neat and clean again. Some critics say it is unholy to cross this gate with this intention but believe its sanctity. Critics argue it is good to cross this gate with the resolution not to do sins in future life. This "Gate To Heavens' remains open for ten consecutive nights after sunset to sunrise and padlocked during the daytime. This gate is padlocked all the year except these ten days.
British Raj
Pakpattan was declared district headquarters in 1849 when British rule was established in the subcontinent. The headquarters were later moved to Gugera in 1852 and then to Sahiwal in 1856. British also instituted Pakpattan Municipal Committee in 1868. Kasur-Lodhran section of the railway line was laid in 1910 and Pakpattan became an important station on the railway map because of the railway divisional headquarters. Though this section of the railway line was torn apart and sent to Mesopotamia during Second World War and the town could not prosper as an agricultural market in those days. On July 1, 1990, Pakpattan was again declared district headquarters. This became the only district of the country without any tehsil until Arifwala tehsil was included in the district in 1995.
When Punjab fell into the hands of British rulers, due to its historical importance and value, British gave Pakpattan a prime significance. Pakpattan was made a District Headquarter and the only district between Lahore and Multan. Two big and gigantic water canals Khadar Canal and Pakpattan Canal were dug and constructed on the left and right sides of the city. These two canals are hundreds of miles long. A Colony Officer and a Colony Magistrate were posted in the area. All the disputes and land revenues cases of the irrigating areas were brought before the Colony Officers and Magistrate courts. A big and grand train station was built in the city to connect all the irrigating areas that were far away such as Bahawalpur, Mailsi, and Khanewal state.
The ruins of the grand administrative area can be seen in once called "Colony Areas' where big and grand old courthouses and British officer's residences tell their stories. The train station was so busy and big that it could serve hundreds of passengers at the same time. The ruins of its grandeur can be seen at old ticket houses and waiting areas. Many trains were departing daily towards Bahawalpur and Lahore to cover the areas between those cities. Now-a-days Pakpattan train station is deserted and only one train leaves daily. When the road's condition and transportation were not good and easy, this train station acted as a big source to link the area with other regions. But due to administrative reasons and mainly to protect British officers from freedom fighters during the Great Mutiny, another small and peaceful village Sahiwal, then called Montgomery was given the status of the district, and Pakpattan was made its Tehsil. Till 1991, Pakpattan remained Tehsil Headquarters of Sahiwal District formerly Montgomery District. From 1991, it has been given the status of District Headquarters and Arifwala has become its 2nd Tehsil.
